When are you a real surfer? - I was once asked!!! - hard to say, is it when you prove your self by aiming for Big wave Surfing?, is it the competitive type who goes for a the best results, or is it when a person who are willing to sacrifice everything for a good day out there?
I can tell for sure, but if I have to come up with something, I believe a real surfer is a person who really goes for some "soul surfing" - which in my perspective means a person who "live, breathe and sleep surfing" - it becomes a life style, something you can't let go of. Every time the conditions are perfect, a restless feeling pumps in your veins, a feeling that can lead to drastic consequences in your life.
I remember once back in my days as a "surf nutcase" - a heavy Low were moving in from the North Sea, we had perfect conditions, strong SW winds, good swell, getting bigger all the time. I simply had to go surfing, so I called my boss to get the day of. I had already found a replacement for my job that day, and he said "no way"!!! (he was a totally jerk anyway!!) - so I just said goodbye "Boss-dude" and quit my job instantly - and of course I had a super surf session, one of those I'll never forget.
So when Vince called me and asked me if i was interested in shooting some pic's of him and his good friend Anders, Christmas day i had to say "but of course"!!!
I was frezzng cold - minus 10 with a heavy wind chill factor, and lot's of ice and snow all over.
We meet up early in the morning, then drove of to the surf spot. Here is a little photo essay from this epic and very "Crispy Christmas Surf Session" - and let there be no doubt this is what I call real surfers.
Vince and Anders - Dudes, you got my deepest respect!!!!
